Looking for a mid week break for some dirty riding?  Come on out for a few spins around the Big Creek Trail System with Jim “Hot Legs” Heebner and get through the mid week hump.  Jim is a solid athlete and great cyclist and will be graciously leading the ride through the trail system for about an hour and a half.  The ride can be tailored for both beginners and more advanced riders with the varied trail selection at Big Creek.  Look for Jim in front of the restroom facility near the entrance to the Greenway trail, he’s a tall dude and easy to spot in a crowd!

The ride will be Starting at the Greenway parking lot on the east side of NP Parkway, directly across from the Haverty’s Furniture store.   The parking lot is 1 block north of the intersection of Encore Parkway and NP Parkway.  The group will collect in front of the restroom facility and ride for approximately an hour and a half.  Wheels rolling at 6:00!

Feel free to email or call for more details, or just to give a heads up that your going to make it to the ride.

The ride will run through the Spring and Summer, or until we run out of daylight in the evenings.  Have fun and I’ll see you out there!

Disclaimer!    Please Read!

Mountain biking can be inherently dangerous and often located in inherently dangerous terrain with potential consequences of participating being injury up to and including death. All participants in the group assume responsibility for themselves in the face of these risks, and should not participate in any rides that they could not complete on their own in case of emergency. This includes taking responsibility for finding your own way in case you get lost and/or separated from the group, as well as carrying sufficient food/water for such an eventuality, and also not assuming that group members will be able to provide you with assistance. We’ve never had a rider get lost or seriously injured yet, and by making sure you are self-prepared and aware of the risks, we hope you can help us keep it that way.

Got some new stuff this season?  Why not let Cannon Cyclery help you find a new home for the old stuff?  The Outlet is your answer! 

The Outlet is a used and consignment equipment store featuring handpicked bikes, wheels, components, and other cycling related goodies!  Cannon Cyclery along with new team member Kurt Schindler, are your new Go To source for used and consignment equipment.  Look for the outlet to launch on the website later this month!   The shop is currently looking for your used and in good condition bikes, wheels, components, and gear to feature on the site.  Once the Outlet page is live on the website, you’ll be able to browse all the goodies available as well as purchase directly through the shopping cart.
If you have some nice stuff that needs a new home, the selling process is pretty simple.  Cannon Cyclery will take care of all the details for you.  We will photograph the bike, wheels,  or gear and create a description of the item.  We will also do the research and help you determine the best market value to help you make both a quick and profitable sale.  The Outlet also markets your items to Craigslist as well as eBay if you would like a broader audience.  Our Job will be to take the guess work out of helping you find a new home for some of your gear.

Outlet Service Details:

UPDATED!

The Cannon Cyclery Clinics for 2012 riding season are ready!  New day and time in the new shop!  Come learn for the “guru” himself.  The clinics take place at the shop the Third Wednesday of the month at 6:00 and rotate each time to keep the knowledge fresh.  Check out the calendar to find one for you!  From flat tire repair for both the clincher tire and the tubular to regular bike cleaning, the clinics are informative, fun, and interactive.  Each clinic last about an hour and includes a detailed handout covering the topic as well as a Q&A session. Come by and pick up a thing or two and be ready for the inevitable!

Need to stock up on tubes, CO2, or other essentials?  As an added bonus, clinic attendees get 25% off flat kit supplies in the shop!

2012 Cannon Cyclery Clinic Schedule

April 18th 6:00 – Flat Repair (Clincher Tire) and Maintenance Basics     Clinic Handout

May 16th 6:00 – Flat repair for Tubular Tires and Race Wheel Prep     Clinic Handout

June 20th 6:00 – Flat Repair (Clincher Tire) and Maintenance Basics     Clinic Handout

July 18th 6:00 – Blown Chain and Cable Fixes and Minor Adjustments     Clinic Handout

August 15th 6:00 – Flat repair for Tubular Tires and Race Wheel Prep     Clinic Handout

September 19th 6:00 – Flat Repair (Clincher Tire) and Maintenance Basics     Clinic Handout

October 17th 6:00 – Trail-side Fixes and Flats (Mountain Bike Clinic)     Clinic Handout

Trail Side Fixes and Flats

With the proper maintenance and care of your ride, you can minimize your downtime on the trail.  However, flat tires and broken parts are almost unavoidable and knowing how to handle them properly can save your ride or race!  Begin your ride by being preparing with the basics of what to carry with you at all times when out riding.  You’ll need:

• A spare tube that it the right size for your bike and a patch kit.
• A CO2 powered inflation system and at least 2 spare CO2 cartridges.
• Tire tools for removing and installing your tube.
• A multi-tool with a chain tool and multiple wrenches/Allen keys.
• Some anti-flat tire mojo.

What I also recommend for the trail:

• Zip ties and a small roll of tape.
• An extra section of chain that matches

your bike or a master link.

• A small (well sealed) bottle of chain lube.
• An extra shift and brake cable.
• Cannon Cyclery Business Cards!

Some Dirty bike Facts

• Proper chain lubrication is one of the most beneficial and often overlooked pre-ride rituals.  Ideally you should spray or drip lube on the chain every other ride.  The best practice is to apply a thin coating to the chain only and then wipe off the excess with a dry rag.  When the chain is properly lubed it will shift and run quietly, wear longer, and keep other drive train parts lasting longer.
• Creaking and popping sounds coming from your steed are not normal and are usually a sign that something is loose, worn, or cracked.  It’s not a bad idea to occasionally check the important bolts on your stem, crank arms, and headset etc…  Be careful not to over torque them however, only tighten them if they are loose.
• Bicycle cables and housing will last approximately 2 years and will stretch, wear, and corrode over time.
• A good quality bicycle helmet has a lifespan of approximately 3 years, after that the polystyrene of which it is constructed will be deteriorated and will not function properly in a crash.

REPAIRING A FLAT (Mountain Bike Tire)

Everyone will have a flat tire at one time or another, so as a cyclist it is your duty to be prepared for when it occurs.  Removing and repairing a punctured tube is much easier than you think, and after a little instruction and some practice you will be able to do it with no problem.

Here’s what you need to do:

1. Get to a safe place on the trail that will provide you enough room to work.  It works well to use a tree to hang the bike from.
2. Open or release the brake system to provide sufficient room to remove the deflated wheel if you have “V” or Cantilever brakes.  If you have disc brakes, be sure to NOT squeeze a brake lever with the wheel out.
3. Open the quick release and remove the deflated wheel from the frame or fork.   If the flat is on the rear, shift the bike into the two smallest gears.  This will allow the cassette to slip past the derailleur a bit easier.
4. Begin to remove the tire by loosening the bead from the hook of the rim. This is where the tire levers will come in handy.  Place the spoon end of the lever under the bead of the tire and lift it over the lip of the rim and out of the hook.  Repeat this in a second or third spot as necessary to un-seat the bead completely.
5. Next, slide the tire lever all the way around the inside of the bead and loosen the tire completely from the rim surface, exposing the inner tube.
6. Now, remove the punctured tube from the inside of the tire and watch for the valve stem and its relation to the tire.  Often times you can trace the puncture to a corresponding hole or tear on the tire.  This is where it is handy to have the label of the tire located at the valve hole of the rim.
7. Once you have located the hole in the tube check to see if your tire is damaged as well.  If the hole or tear in the tire is large enough, you will need to patch or boot the damaged area.  Slide your hand around the inside of the tire and check for any debris that may be stuck in the tire; such as thorns, sticks, staples, nails, or glass or other things that don’t belong in your tire.  Here’s where a dollar bill (a $20 seems to hold better) or power bar wrappers come in handy.
8. To patch or boot your tire, you will need to insert a liner (power bar wrapper, dollar bill, or tire boot works fine) in between the tube and the inside of the tire, forming a barrier to keep the tube from ballooning out of the hole and popping.  This step is not always necessary as it depends on the size and type of puncture.
9. Now, remove your replacement tube from your emergency kit and inflate it slightly by mouth.  This will make it much easier to install in the next step.
10. Install the valve stem in the rim by pulling the tire halfway back and exposing the valve hole.
11. Fold the tire back over the valve stem and tube, and seat the tube inside the tire.
12. Push the tube all the way inside the tire and above the inside of the rim.
13. Beginning at the valve stem, insert the bead of the tire into the hook of the rim, and walk the tire all the way around the rim leaving as little unseated bead surface as possible.
14. Now insert your tire lever between the unseated bead and rim surface with the spoon side facing the rim.
15. Beginning at one end of the unseated bead, begin to roll the bead into the hook of the rim. Be careful not to pinch the tube with the tire lever as you perform this step.
16. Walk your hands around the tire, ensuring that the tire is completely seated into the rim and that no tube is exposed.
17. Install your inflation device on the valve stem, and inflate the tire by bursting small amounts of air into the tube while watching the tire.  Fully inflate the tire once you are confident that the tire is completely seated on the rim.  Do not rest the tire on the ground while inflating it as this may cause the tire to unseat during inflation. Instead, lay the wheel on its side as you inflate the tire.  (If you have a frame pump or hand pump, throw it into the woods and wait for someone to come by with a CO2 system.  This may actually be faster than attempting to pump a fat mountain bike tire with it.) HA!
18. Reinstall your wheel into the frame or fork.  The most effective way to do this is to place the bicycle upright, resting on its wheels. This step will ensure that the wheels are properly seated in the dropouts.
19. Tighten and clamp your quick release, and reset the brakes.
20. Lift up the bike and spin the wheel to ensure that all has been installed properly.

If your ride is equipped with a Tubeless system with a sealant (Highly Recommended) and you are experiencing a rare flat tire, the process for installing a tube is exactly the same as above.  However, you’ll need to remove the valve stem from the rim to install the tube.  Just be aware that a tubeless tire is a much tighter fit and will often “pop” loudly as it seats in place.  It can sometimes take as much as 60psi to properly seat a tubeless tire.

Wither it be speed or distance, human bicycle racing performance has always been enhanced by the quality of the equipment used by the athletes.  The thrill of competition has driven bicycle manufacturers to continually push the performance limits of the equipment they design.  From advances in frame design to the addition of better quality and lighter components, cycling equipment has constantly evolved to be lighter, more aerodynamic, and of superior quality.  It is clear that carbon fiber composite has made a distinctive impact on cycling design and has dynamically progressed cycling equipment into what it is today.  Almost every aspect of today’s bicycle and its components has been revolutionized by the advent of composite design.  From the frame to the wheels, almost every part can be and is made from carbon fiber composite.  However it is the wheels that have the most impact on overall speed and efficiency, to which much effort has been made to improve.

 Early Designs.

By the late 1980’s bicycle racing wheels were taking lessons from the disc wheel, constructed from laminated thin foam layers, which had already proven itself as a record holding aerodynamic design used in track racing.  In terms of aerodynamic drag, the disc wheel is theoretically ideal when considering the wind from a 0°direction; however it is highly sensitive to cross-winds which are a constant factor in almost every outdoor and real world riding condition.  Conversely, a wheel with a narrow and thin side profile is exponentially less affected by cross-winds.  Keeping this in mind, designers and engineers pushed for a wheel that was both aerodynamic and versatile in all wind conditions, and would enhance an athlete’s racing ability.

Many of the early designs formulated by such manufacturers as Nimble, Specialized, Hed, and Spinergy in the early 1990’s, utilized carbon fiber composite spoked wheels containing 3-5 spokes of airfoil cross section, which produced less drag than the metal round spokes and box section rims of traditional wheels.  These wheels were somewhat revolutionary in both thinking and design, and quickly gained acceptance by both manufacturers and athletes. However, because the design utilized a low count of very large cross-section spokes, the wheels were still subject to some of the cross-wind issues of the disc.  The overall design concept was sound, but the stiff and rigid one piece composite spoked wheels exhibited mild sensitivity to aerodynamic induced vibrations and an overall abusive ride when coupled with a stiff and efficient frame design.  Although the aerodynamic advantages of the new wheel design proved to be beneficial, most athletes found that the tradeoffs in handling were simply not worth the additional speed.

The next logical step in the progression of race wheel design was to remove the composite spokes and build a hybrid wheel with traditional metal spokes coupled to a deep-section composite  rim utilizing a “V” or Toroidal shape rim.  This step was very progressive in that it changed the dynamic of the wheel from that of a harsh and stiff riding wheel to one that had similar ride properties to traditional spoked wheel.  The initial testing of the new wheel design showed that about 90% of the aerodynamic advantage was retained and that the depth of the rim and the number of spokes were the primary contributing factors to drag.  By the mid 1990’s the standard for composite race wheel design utilized a deep section rim built with either bladed metal spokes or 3 to 5 aero-section composite spokes.

The lessons learned in the early days of race wheel design continue to contribute ideas and principals to the current designs which push aerodynamics and wheel technology to new limits.  Manufacturing processes and material costs have evolved to dramatically reduce the cost and increase production to a point where a high quality carbon wheel set is cost competitive with an aluminum wheel set.   Current composite race wheels are both incredibly light and are highly tuned to be very strong and efficient, and still maintain a comfortable ride.

Why Carbon Fiber Composite?

For decades, bicycle wheels have been made from aluminum, since it is one of the lightest extrudable metals, and yet durable enough for daily riding.  It is historically easy to manufacture through a relatively simple process.  Once it is extruded into a desired profile, cut to length, and rolled to a loop, it is simply joined at the ends to create the rim.  Because it is an isotropic material, aluminum has the same value (roughly 68Gpa) for both its tensile and compressive modulus, which is an important design factor.  By comparison, a carbon composite structure must be designed anisotropically, and demonstrates a much higher tensile modulus (typically 140 GPa to 240 GPa).  However, carbon composites compressive modulus is much lower (typically 11 GPa to 15 GPa) and must be accounted for when considering the rims design.  Carbon composites require a more complex stress and strain calculation process than traditional metal materials and are only recently accumulating enough history to solidify its stature as a superior engineering material.

Because of its greater tensile strength to weight ratios, it possible to significantly improve bike performance with carbon rimmed wheels.  Carbon composite’s higher tensile modulus increases rim stiffness, which reduces power loss as the rider’s energy is transmitted to the rear wheel.  Achieving the same stiffness in an aluminum wheel requires the use of more material, which adds weight and produces an abusive ride.  In contrast, a lighter and less stiff aluminum rim requires a greater number of spokes to maintain overall wheel stiffness, which again adds weight and reduces ride quality. The stiffer carbon rim requires fewer spokes to maintain the same rigidity as a higher spoke count aluminum wheel.  A lighter rim reduces the rotational weight of the wheel, which means the rider expends less energy to maintain forward motion and during acceleration.  Contrastingly, carbon’s very low compressive modulus does a better job than aluminum of damping vibration on the road or rough terrain which is a key factor in rider comfort.

Both a significant reduction in wheel rotational weight and an increase in wheel stiffness are the best way to improve riding performance.   These two factors are the easy to perceive and are often the difference between winning and simply performing your best.  Typically a rider will use a basic aluminum wheel-set for daily riding and training and exchange for the faster carbon race wheels for ultimate race day performance.  Training on a heavier and less aerodynamic aluminum wheel-set enhances the perceived performance from the lighter and more aerodynamic race wheels.

Rim Design and Construction.

The design and manufacturing process of most composite rims is highly specific to the end use of the wheel.  Like many composite products, the choice and type of material can be adapted to tailor the properties of the product to the conditions which it is used.  The prepreg fabrics, number of plies and their orientations is specific for each wheel and is dependent on the type of rim and its intended use. Once the final shape and general architecture is established, the layup schedule is mapped and is typically a mixture of plies that are angled to stiffen the wheel as needed, considering the rim type and shape as well as ride compliance.

Depending on the manufacturer, the layup is typically optimized by adding reinforcement in areas where it is needed, again specific to rim type.  For example, extra material is used to reinforce the areas where the spokes interface with the rim to prevent pull-through due to the highly concentrated point load the spoke tension creates.  Many manufacturers reinforce the braking surface with a Kevlar fiber weave to improve the durability against the harsh brake pad wear and pressure.  Although Kevlar fibers have 1/3 the stiffness of carbon, they are about 3 times more resistant to impact, abrasive wear, and shear forces.   The added Kevlar helps distribute the compaction forces generated during braking further down the rim sidewalls, thus dissipating braking heat and shear stresses away from the braking surface.  In some cases the braking surface and tire mounting surface are encapsulated with a woven silica/ceramic fabric to further dissipate the compressive forces due to braking, and add durability and toughness at the tire seating and braking area.

Typically carbon rim designs incorporate uni-directional fibers to handle all of the tensile and compressive loading within the rim, giving the final product a mix of strength and stiffness without sacrificing the compliant ride quality.  Woven fibers are used exclusively in spoke-hole areas, braking surfaces, and damage prone outer skin areas to ensure the maximum possible strength in these high stress areas.  Overall, the combination of fiber types and orientation results in a spoke pull through strength of more than 50% greater than the ultimate tensile strength of a 14 gauge spoke which insures a solid connection to the hub.  The mix of fibers also produces an increased durability, a higher stiffness to weight, and strength to weight ratio than a traditional aluminum rim.

Because of the delicate nature of raw carbon prepreg fabrics, a complex procedure is required to prepare a carbon rim in a mold.  The work of preparing a rim can typically only be done by human hand to insure that all the small parts of prepreg fabric are correctly put together. The process is arduous and typically takes up to an hour to prepare. Once the molds are checked and pressurized internally with a bladder, the filled form moves into an autoclave where a detailed and precise “baking process” completes the wheel blank.  The resulting wheel blank comes out of the form in a raw state and requires a finishing process to refine the rim.   Finishing specialists clean the blank, mill the residual epoxy at precisely defined regions and prepare the rim for final assembly by the manufacturer.

The final assembly of a carbon composite race wheel is also normally done by human hand.  The spoke installation and lacing is typically done through a mechanized system by the larger manufacturers, but the final tensioning and truing is normally done by hand.  The choice of spoke is again specific to the end use, and is normally made by another manufacturer who specializes in spoke design and fabrication.  For most aerodynamic wheels, a bladed stainless steel spoke is used and is specifically heat treated to improve its tensile strength and durability.  Although the hubs are also typically produced by another manufacturer who specializes in their design and manufacturing, they are generally specific the wheel producer who also contributes key design criteria to the final product.

Fatigue and impact testing as well as field trials are integral to the design process, and continually enhance the performance for each rim type.  Like many other progressive products that utilize a material like composite, the durability testing and failure modes testing are critical for defining the overall strength and longevity of the wheel.  Carbon fiber composite wheels are still in their infancy when compared to traditional aluminum wheels, but are proving to be a better material for most racing applications.

Top Manufacturers and Current Designs.

Today’s top race wheel manufacturers have roots grounded in the early years of carbon wheel development, and have success built on the failures and achievements of early designs.  Current wheel designs have been tested to standards which are normally reserved for aircraft and are wind tunnel proven to be aerodynamically efficient.  Incorporating hundreds of hours of wind tunnel testing allows manufacturers to hone their design and prove the aerodynamic advantage when paired with various type s of bicycles and riders.  Integrating such progressive technologies as ceramic wheel bearings, surface dimpling, tire to wheel matching, and low friction surface coatings are becoming common practice and push wheel performance to new limits.  Manufacturers such as Zipp, HED, and Bontrager, are recognized as progressive designers and have introduced many of the technologies that are commonplace in the bicycle racing arena.

As the industry leader in carbon race wheel design, and a rich heritage in Formula One race car composites, Zipp is known for advancing wheel design technologies to an uncompromising level.  No other manufacturer of race wheels devotes as much time and effort to real world and wind tunnel testing of their product.  The engineers at Zipp have pioneered countless numbers of patents, including the hybrid-Toroidal rim shape, multi-material co-molding, and rim dimpling.  Zipp sets the standard of design to which most other manufacturers aspire to.  As the largest supplier to professional level race teams and triathletes, Zipp has gained an enormous following of athletes.  Zipp produces a wide array of wheel sets ranging from a shallow 30mm rim section to an ultra deep 1080mm rim section, there are wheels for every riding condition.  Even the classic disc wheel has been given a face lift to a new design which incorporates a Toroidal rim and generates lift with the same principal as an airplane wing.

Opening its doors in the mid 1980’s, HED cycling began humbly and quickly grew to become known as a leader in aerodynamic design.  HED cycling products designs and manufactures 16 different models of carbon composite wheels and are used in such prestigious events from the Tour de France to the Hawaii Ironman World Championships.  Every single wheel is still handmade, though production has become somewhat automated to increase production.  HED wheels are affordable for most athletes, and are built upon sound aerodynamic and durable designs.

Currently as a division of Trek Bicycles, Bontrager Components was born during the Mountain Biking revolution of the 1980’s.  Founded by Keith Bontrager, an engineer and designer from California, Bontrager Components produces a wide range of cycling components for Trek Bicycles and aftermarket consumers.  Bontrager wheels currently utilize such unique designs as low count spoke pairing, Swiss made hubs, and Trek’s patented OCLV (Optimum Compaction Low Void) carbon composite molding process.  All Trek bicycles come standard with Bontrager wheels and some models are available with the Aeolus Carbon Aero wheels produced in a partnership with HED Cycling.

Half Off a bike Fit and $25 off the Love Package tune up for March and April!

Warmer weather is right around the corner and cycling season is picking up!  Its time to get a leg up on the competition and get a proper bike fit and get your machine ready for the season with a little Love!

During the Month of March and April at Cannon Cyclery you can get half off a bike fit with master bike fit tech Curtis!  Sounds too good to be true, but it is!  For $75 you can get the full Cannon Cyclery fitting session complete with before and after video analysis to work out all the kinks on your steed.

Also during March and April the Love Package tune up is $50!  Also sounds too good, but I assure you, that’s a solid deal!  $25 off the Love Package, Cannon Cyclery’s most popular tune up package.   Get your machine ready to hit the road or trails with a complete tune up that includes a clean and lube to get the cob webs and dust off from the winter hibernation.

Take advantage of both deals and give the upcoming cycling season a one two punch!  Give your bike fit and your bike a tune and be ready for Spring Cycling!

Broken Cable Quick fix

Usually due to a lack of maintenance or regular cable replacement, a broken cable can be a big problem, especially if you’re stuck at the bottom of a climb!  However, you don’t have to let a broken, frayed, or damaged cable or housing get the best of you.  Cables will commonly break where they are most bent, usually at the shifter or under the bottom bracket.  However, worn out cable housings can also fail and collapse if they are worn or corroded.  This repair will lock your derailleur into one gear and is a bit more advanced; your multi-tool will really come in handy.

• Get to a safe place on the trail or road that will provide you enough room to work.  It works well to use a tree to hang the bike from.
• Locate the break in the cable and remove it from the cable housing by pulling it away from the break.  Be careful not to poke yourself with the frayed ends of the cable, they are very sharp and can cause an annoying prick to your finger.
• Using your multi tool loosen up the 5mm Allen bolt that retains the cable at the derailleur end.  You don’t need to remove it all the way, just loosen it enough to get the cable out.  Remove and stash any remaining cable housing so it does not get caught in any moving parts.
• Next, you’ll be using that broken section of cable to create a tensioning system for your derailleur which is now sprung itself to the hardest gear.
• Find a good section of cable, about a foot or so long, and tie the tightest knot you can in the cable and thread the untied end of the cable back through the barrel adjuster where the housing was threaded.  Give it a tug to make sure it is seated.
• Now comes the tricky part.  You need to manually shift the bike into an easier gear, probably 2^nd or 3^rd cog from the top, and hold it there long enough to re-attach the cable to the binder.  This is where it would be helpful to have a bit of help from your riding buddy.
• You’ll need to hold the derailleur in position, attach the cable under the binder, and turn the Allen bolt all at the same time to get this to work.  However, once it is attached the broken cable will serve as a tensioner and align the derailleur into a more functional gear.
• Once the cable is attached, you’ll need to align the derailleur so that the idler pulleys are in a nice straight line under the cog when looking from the back.  This will keep the chain in position here and allow you to finish out the ride!

When you enter through the front door, you will see the expanded product display area with plenty of goodies for your bike hanging on the walls.  Bike check in is on the left and the new check-in counter features an articulating arm stand for the iPad and a new electronic check-in page for paperless check in.  The new check-in page also allows you to fill it out on-line before you get to the shop if you need to get in and out quickly.  There are more goodies for your bike on display on the right side of the showroom as well as a spot for a couch and coffee table (coming soon).  The showroom also has a parking rack for your bike to hang out when you come in.  Be sure to say hi to the shop mascots Ben and Bella! 

The new expanded shop area now has two work benches and a ton of storage and work space.  Keeping efficiency in mind, the new bench set up keeps all necessary tools close for quick access.  Cushy anti-fatigue floor mats as well as a nice rug keeps the carpet clean as well as the back happy while working.  With the addition of a second bench, the shop can now accommodate quick repairs and while you wait jobs even faster than before.  So, pull up a bar stool at the counter and hang out while I change your tube of give your bars some new wrap!

  The new bike fit studio has some remarkable new one-of-a-kind features and has a warm and personal feel.  Featuring a 360 degree rotating fitting platform, the fit process can be viewed for any angle without having to dismount the bike.  Once mounted in the trainer on the platform, the cyclist can be filmed from any angle without having to change position.  The wall behind the fit platform will soon be painted with a grid pattern to help make measurements before and after the fitting easier to see.  The new fit area works really well and allows for a thorough and informative fit process!

The remaining space in the new shop houses a restroom, kitchenette, a storage room for bikes, and a warehouse area.  Bike washing now has a dedicated area for washing and drying no matter what the weather is outside, and there is plenty of storage space for the busy season.    The kitchenette has a Kureg coffee maker and there is plenty of beer in the fridge, so come by and hang out while I take care of your sweet two-wheeled machine!  There are new signs coming as well as new products for 2012, so stay tuned!

Tires      As the number one concern for most cyclists, your bike’s sneakers are a very important item to keep an eye on.  Your tires are your connection to the road and take quite a beating when you really examine what they go through.  They are in constant contact with the hot and rough pavement, rocky trail surface, trainer roller, or whatever destructive surface you may be riding on.  Over time they are designed to wear down by slowly loosing rubber against the riding surface while giving you that ever-important traction you need to ride.  In order to get the most out of your tires and keep you safe while riding you should check them regularly for nicks, cuts, and damage as well as keep them inflated correctly.

Generally speaking, you should be able to get about 2000 miles or so out of a set of road tires.  I say “about” 2000 miles, because the type of tire you are riding has a lot to do with the mileage you can expect to see form them.  For example, a tire geared more towards road racing will typically have a soft and sticky rubber compound and a softer casing (the base cotton structure of a bicycle tire) and will usually wear down in less than 2k miles.  Whereas, a tire with a harder rubber compound and a thicker casing will typically last 3k or more depending on the riding conditions.   You will want to inspect your tires once a month or so to check for any damage like, cuts, scrapes, or worn areas.  Many brands of tires have wear indicators that can help you determine when it is time to replace.  Often times a damaged tire will need to be replaced long before it has worn out!  To increase the life expectancy of your sneakers you can rotate them about every 500 miles or so to help balance the wear patterns that will develop.

Chain    For sure the second most common replacement item on your steed, your chain serves to provide you with a solid connection between your cranks and the wheel.  Your chain provides a way to transfer all the power you make in your legs, to your rear wheel as efficiently as it can.  It provides an invaluable service, and only asks for a bit of lube occasionally and a nice bath once in a while.  A solid trade if you think about how important its job is!

On average, you should be able to get about 3000 miles or so from most road bicycle chains, and about 1500 miles on a mountain bike chain.  That number is largely subjective to the type of riding conditions and care that it receives during its life cycle.   For example, a mountain bike chain lives in relatively severe conditions and is subjected to dusty, dirty, and muddy trails so it usually will not last as long as a road chain.  And, a commuter who rides in all types of weather conditions including rain and snow may experience more rust related wear and may not see quite as many miles.  However, if you are diligent about keeping the chain lubricated properly about every third ride or so and de-greasing regularly, you should expect to see typical mileage.  Your cassette and chain rings will also last longer due to a cleaner and well lubricated chain.  You can typically get about 3 chains per cassette and about 6 chains per set of chain rings.

Cables and Housings      Often overlooked as a common wear item, your cables and cable housings should be checked regularly as they can be a safety issue if they are damaged or worn.  They serve to reliably connect your shifters and brake levers to the derailleurs and brakes, but may not perform correctly if worn.  When worn beyond their intended life cycle, cables and housings can fail by braking, fraying, sticking, or even exploding!

Generally speaking, cables and housings typically last about two riding seasons.  However, there are a few factors that can prematurely age your system.  Your cables are comprised of a group of finer cables and can act somewhat like a wick, soaking up water and sweat and drawing it up the cable into the housing, which in turn corrodes and rusts the cable.  This corrosion will add excess friction to the system, which in turn affects the shifting and braking performance.  The cable housings can also be affected by rust and corrosion or may become brittle and weak from the sun’s UV rays and dry-rot.  Cable housings may become cracked and dried out, swollen from rust, or scraped from rubbing on the frame which could cause a catastrophic failure at a very in opportune moment!  As a general rule, I typically recommend replacing them every two riding seasons for the average cyclist.  If you are a heavy sweater or ride in particularly harsh conditions, we may want to replace them annually.  A fresh set of cables and housings is a great way to return that new feeling to your bike and will often improve the performance of the shifting and braking.

Long Term Commitment Tune package special Extended through February!!

Looking or a way to treat your two-wheeled love to some much deserved off season luxury?  Winter the perfect time for some off season love for your hard working steed.  How about a complete break-down of your machine, cleaning & inspection, and complete rebuild?  Through February of 2012 you can take $50 off the labor with the Long Term Commitment!  What a great way to show some love for all the great rides you have had this year!

Come get some off-season love!